Veliko Tarnovo in 1871 - memories of a traveller

During my first visitation in Tarnovo in 1871 the Turkish mjutesarif(governor) sent me quickly a zaptie-chaush(a Turkish soldier) to escort myself during my walks in the Turkish district because it was quite of dangerous place. Naturally I visited Haidar bei. The Tarnovo’s streets ascend and descend up and down; that’s why it was in vain to search some car to rent it. Setting out on foot for the town-hall I passed by the market-street. I arrived at the sarai(resting place). It was a combination of different buildings situated in a quadratic courtyard. Some buildings were older, other temporary - replaced in 1875 with new buildings. Looking through some broken windows I could have a look at the big magnificent premises. The walls were painted in oriental style...
An underling informed me that Haidar pasha(the governor) was ready to receive me. About 60 people: with different nationalities, Turkish women, Gypsies-all were waiting to be received from the governor. The underling cleared the path for me, the gards saluted, a young page raised a curtain and...I saw him! He was of short stature, prematurely ageing. When I entered the room he got up and greeted me with kindness. That was “pashata” na Tarnovo, governor of 6 towns, 6 hills and 447 villages. Beside his side sat an inteligent looking,swanked Bulgarian - Karagiozoglu. He was owner of a flour-mill and a spinning workshop. He was the first Christian master in Veliko Tarnovo,and was “muavin”- assistant of the governor.
The conversation was versatile- we talked about roads, schools, churches, mining and industry. But all that wasn’t interesting for the governor. He didn’t want to give any money for these institutions..The conversation finished quickly....
During my evening visits in Bulgarian families I was surprised at the strange structure of their houses. There were irregular buildings. The houses’ yards were small with gardens with roses and fruit-trees..The rooms in the house were wide,with open windows to enter fresh air. The rooms were being illuminated from the corridor.Protruding roof threw shade over the flowers (usually carnations and gillyflowers) in the garden. It was such a quiet place- perfect one for holiday...